There was a time when Dr Sonali Kohli, senior dermatologist at Mumbai’s Sir HN Reliance Foundation Hospital, had young people looking for “brighter” skin, a euphemism for “fairer” skin. But for the first time in years, she has seen a shift in perception as everybody is now looking after their skin the way they would their heart, liver or kidneys. “Post-Covid, people are looking at the skin through a new lens, not as a cosmetic prop but as the largest organ in the human body. Over the last year, each of my patients has not asked me about creams they should use but whether they contained ceramides or peptides. There is an awareness of what the skin needs that is backed by science,” she says.
Not only has the skin got to be “healthy-looking” but “healthy-functioning” too. This understanding of skin health has evolved with a desire to deal with one of the most stubborn symptoms of long Covid, an itchy and dry skin. With the Korean beauty industry using ceramides and peptides as a sales pitch, and social media users talking about their non-invasive and convenient nature that’s plumping up skin within days of use, a new wave of awareness is surging across age groups. “These provide complete nutrition, are safe for daily use and are proven as credible skin-shielding compounds. More than a cosmetic fad, they have given long-lasting clinical solutions for skin problems,” says Dr Kohli.
However, two major shifts have happened. One is the quest for longevity that’s fuelling the hunt for the science of agelessness. The other is rising pollution, which has changed the perception that skin allergies are caused by food alone. Pollutants can penetrate the skin and weaken its barrier function, break down skin proteins like collagen and elastin fibres, and by blocking UV-B rays from the sun, limit vitamin D production. That’s why skin has assumed a bigger role than aesthetics.
WHAT ARE CERAMIDES AND PEPTIDES?
Ceramides are lipids or fatty acids that comprise about 50 per cent of the skin’s outer layer. They help strengthen the skin’s protective barrier, prevent moisture loss and protect it during exposure to a damaging environment. While the body naturally produces ceramides, their levels decline with age or exposure to pollutants, making the skin prone to toxins. “Imagine a brick and mortar house. Now each brick is a skin cell and the mortar that holds it is the ceramide. When that’s stripped, you must replaster the external barrier with ceramide-rich products. They replenish the skin barrier by filling in gaps between skin cells that make up this outer layer, keeping moisture in and irritants out,” says Dr Inderpreet Kaur Mahendra, dermatologist at Apollo Clinics. “Ceramides have been around for decades in medicated creams. However, now they are being used on a large scale. In research studies, topical ceramide moisturisers applied on the skin surface increased hydration within 24 hours of use,” says Dr Kohli.
Peptides are amino acids, the building blocks of protein, and improve the skin’s ability to produce collagen and elastin, proteins that give the skin its elasticity, tautness and texture. In short, anti-ageing. Peptides repair the skin and can ease inflammation, scars and acnes. “In fact, copper peptides are all set to be the rage next year because they easily remove damaged collagen and elastin from the skin and encourage the growth of new, healthy tissue. Clinical studies on copper peptides show promising results in skin rejuvenation,” says Dr Ajita Bagai Kakkar, director of Dermatology, Lasers and Aesthetic Medicines, Max Multi Speciality Hospital, Panchsheel Park, Delhi.
In fact, peptides have been found to be so effective that she recommends their inclusion in skincare routines from the 20s. “That’s how you can prevent the skin from ageing. Peptides are smaller and more broken down than proteins, which makes them easier for the body to absorb. That’s why they work as both skin and hair care serums and masks,” she adds.
ARE THEY NATURAL OR LAB-MADE?
Ceramides and peptides can be both natural and synthetic. Both can be extracted from plant sources like soy, wheat germ, sweet potato, bean and corn. Synthetic ingredients are lab-engineered to replicate the structure and function of natural ceramides. “Synthetic creams are more affordable than natural ones, where the extraction process is complex,” says Dr Nitu, dermatologist, trichologist and cosmetologist at Mumbai’s Kokilaben Hospital.
HOW TO USE CERAMIDES & PEPTIDES
However, is your cream giving you the protection you need? Dr Kohli insists that it’s important not just to go gaga over a ceramide cream but to check its formulation. “Ceramides are complex lipid molecules. Some are more absorbent, some lesser. So to get the best results, it is important to choose their right concentration, see how they apply to your skin condition and how best they work in combination with other components,” advises Dr Kohli. For example, if you’re addressing specific issues related to ageing or skin rash, choose products that contain ceramides that are compatible with other ingredients known to target those issues. “For anti-ageing, the formula must include ceramides, peptides or retinoids (vitamin A). For irritated or inflamed skin, the cream should combine ceramides with soothing ingredients like niacinamide (a form of vitamin B) or aloe vera, which are anti-inflammatory,” she adds.
For long, people had been using retinol, a form of Vitamin A, and Vitamin C to repair their skin. But on their own, they can be dehydrating. “When paired with ceramides, vitamins C, E and other antioxidants can enhance the skin’s defences with the former holding the skin barrier up,” says Dr Kakkar.
Dr Kohli suggests an easy way of checking the concentration of ceramides. “It should be present in the first four or five fatty acids listed on the product label in the descending order,” she says. “The ideal concentration should be in the ratio of 3:1:1 or three parts ceramide to one part of cholesterol and fatty acid each. They also come with suffixes like Ceramide EOP, AP, NP, EOS, each of which has a specific function and concentration, some more hydrating, others more exfoliating,” adds Dr Nitu.
Peptides, like ceramides, work best with other ingredients, be it antioxidants, vitamin C, niacinamide or hyaluronic acid, a substance made of molecules that absorb moisture like a sponge. “Peptides do not work well with acidic ingredients. Collagen peptides are ideal for skin elasticity and hydration, so those worried about wrinkles should opt for it. But if it’s anti-ageing, then the user should go for peptides like matrixyl and argireline which prevent the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” says Dr Kakkar. As for concentration, she suggests looking at the label for words that start with “palmitoyl” or end with “peptide” within the first five items.
WHO CAN USE IT
Given the fact that social media platforms like Instagram have influencers recommending skin creams as a magic pill that you must take in an appearance-conscious society, Dr Kakkar is worried about youngsters using them. “I have seen 12 to 13-year-olds fall for creams. For teens till they turn 20, sunscreen and moisturisers do their job. They don’t need booster creams at all,” says Dr Kakkar. Although these creams are safe for adults, she says people have different allergies and sensitivities and must therefore do a patch test. “Apply the cream at a particular spot for a week. Discontinue use if you notice any irritation or soreness. Always consult a board-certified dermatologist for the right formulation of ceramides and peptides that are suited to your condition,” she adds. “Besides, do not forget lifestyle, diet and exercise,” says Dr Inderpreet.
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